丁子商社

Restaurant review: Dolce & Crepes By Ho Yi  /  Staff reporter There is no shortage of culinary goodies at Dolce & Crepes. Photo: Ho Yi, Taipei Times 1 2 3 4 5 Encountering Andrew Huang (黃學正) is like meeting a kung-fu master. Only this master’s uncontested prowess is of a gastronomic kind, manifested through his creative compositions that are the exuberant synthesis of distinctive flavors and aromas. And instead of setting up a school to procure fame and disciples, the martial artist chooses to live among us, in an unostentatious residential neighborhood near Taipei’s Xingtian Temple (行天宮). Huang’s Dolce & Crepes is literally in his home, with his two elementary school-aged daughters often seen doing homework on a round table in the living room that doubles as the dining area, where patrons eagerly await the feast they ordered from the menu scribbled on the wall. It is under this domestic veneer that Huang works his magic. Using nothing more than the usual pots and pans, he produces dishes of a culinary refinement on a par with that of Taipei’s top fine dining establishments. Patrons are given full attention upon entering the simply decorated room. Huang takes the time to give a detailed explanation of how the food is prepared and cooked and to suggest wine and drinks to accompany the meal. The owner and chef seems to have a natural ability to describe the nuance of flavors and his luscious combinations of ingredients in a very vivid way, luring diners into an epicurean fantasy that preludes the banquet to come. Huang’s menu contains only around a dozen dishes, but each is hard to resist. The chocolate duck leg confit (油封鴨腿, NT$380), for example, consists of lean meat cooked to tender perfection and seasoned in an appetizing vinegar-based sauce, while the aroma of cocoa delivers an exciting punch to the meat. Huang says the duck leg is marinated and roasted in extra-virgin olive oil instead of duck or goose oil so as to give the French specialty a fruity and less cloying flavor. Dolce & Crepes Address: 31, Ln 330 Songjiang Rd, Taipei City (台北市松江路330巷31號) Telephone: (0910) 202-340 Open: Business hours are subject to change. The restaurant’s Facebook page says it’s open from 2:30pm to 8:30pm on Sundays, and 9:30am to 8:30pm on other days of the week, but it is better to call for a confirmation before going. The restaurant is closed on Wednesdays Average meal: NT$1,000, plus 10% service charge Details: Menu in Chinese, credit cards not accepted The lamb shoulder stewed with figs and apricots (無花果杏桃燉羊肩, NT$680) is another delicate composition which sees the divine match of fresh figs and succulent lamb exploding in the mouth, smoothened by the sweetness of apricots and sauteed vegetables. The Chinese culinary influences also have a strong presence on Huang’s menu. The Sichuan-style spicy chicken (川麻口水雞, NT$580) and king oyster mushroom (川麻杏鮑菇, NT$580) use various types of Sichuan pepper to create an enticing, tongue-numbing sensation, and the homemade pepper oil and sauce taste so good that it is almost a crime not to lick the bowl clean. For seafood lovers, Huang’s popular plate of crabs with deep-fried garlic chips (NT$2,000 or NT$1,000 depending on the types of crab) is definitely a high point of a visit to Dolce & Crepes. Though we weren’t there during crab season, the crustaceans Huang picked for my dining companions and me last month were satisfactorily plump and sweet, buried under the savory layers of garlic chips and doushi (豆鼓), or fermented black soybean, that are fried using olive oil till they are crispy. Vegetarians are also in for a surprise. Fun to look at and pleasant to taste, the roasted balloon with mushroom juice (菌汁烤氣球, NT$220) is a specially sauced bean curd that puffs up when roasted and contracts after cooling down. The end result is a large piece of bean curd that is firm on the outside but retains a fine, soft texture on the inside. Affable and well-informed, Huang appears to be a versatile master with hidden talents and skills. A word of reminder: Please leave smelly socks at home because diners are required to take off their shoes before entering Huang’s home-cum-restaurant.  

展覽名稱：詹喻帆「時空造境」個展 展覽期間：2013年12月21日~2014年1月14日 展覽地點：青雲畫廊（台北市中山區明水路471號1樓） 聯絡方式：02-25332839 電子信箱：cloudgallery1@gmail.com 活動內容： 一、《藝術家個展座談會》 與談人：詹喻帆（藝術家）              陸潔民（現任台灣畫廊協會資深顧問、上海藝術博覽會顧問） 座談時間：2013年12月21日／15：00~16：00 地點：青雲畫廊 二、《時空造境》開幕茶會 茶會時間：2013年12月21日16：00 地點：青雲畫廊   移境造劇-詹喻帆個展   詹氏的創作可以看出運用古典主義，在觀賞的過程中產生「共鳴」，在西方經典的畫作上，加入了新穎的元素，達到「仿」古典作品的效果，既有新舊貫穿的影子存在，這種類似文化拼貼的手法從詹明信（Fredric Jameson）在《後現代主義》一書中提到「戲仿」(pastiche)，將不同時空拼貼式的併置，呈現後現代主義的特殊風格。另外，「移境造劇」所要強調的，是從「超扁平」繪畫裡找回消失的「空間感」，詹喻帆去思考卡漫風格對當代藝術的影響，試圖找回被捨棄已久的三度空間透視，在平塗發展極致的此時，回歸繪畫對人體與空間的掌握。 詹氏的作品，展示了對人物形體的掌握、鮮豔的色彩，使作品呈現寓言故事般的敘述方式，反應藝術家透過生活歷練、人生經驗、當代議題，融合自己的想法成為一幅幅寓言繪畫。這些拼貼的手法捨棄歷史的主體性，成為新的文化脈絡，「移境造劇」有如超現實般驚人的奇幻效果，藝術家成為視覺的魔術師，上演一齣精采的藝術饗宴，在觀賞畫作的同時，「詹喻帆式」的風格可以解讀更高一層的閱讀經驗，帶給我們無限的喜悅和感觸，讓觀者可以沉浸藝術當中。      

在炎熱的夏天. 清晨到海邊散散步. 在月兒灣灣玻璃屋.享用清爽可口的早餐. 開始了美好的一天