丁子商社

Restaurant review: Dolce & Crepes By Ho Yi  /  Staff reporter There is no shortage of culinary goodies at Dolce & Crepes. Photo: Ho Yi, Taipei Times 1 2 3 4 5 Encountering Andrew Huang (黃學正) is like meeting a kung-fu master. Only this master’s uncontested prowess is of a gastronomic kind, manifested through his creative compositions that are the exuberant synthesis of distinctive flavors and aromas. And instead of setting up a school to procure fame and disciples, the martial artist chooses to live among us, in an unostentatious residential neighborhood near Taipei’s Xingtian Temple (行天宮). Huang’s Dolce & Crepes is literally in his home, with his two elementary school-aged daughters often seen doing homework on a round table in the living room that doubles as the dining area, where patrons eagerly await the feast they ordered from the menu scribbled on the wall. It is under this domestic veneer that Huang works his magic. Using nothing more than the usual pots and pans, he produces dishes of a culinary refinement on a par with that of Taipei’s top fine dining establishments. Patrons are given full attention upon entering the simply decorated room. Huang takes the time to give a detailed explanation of how the food is prepared and cooked and to suggest wine and drinks to accompany the meal. The owner and chef seems to have a natural ability to describe the nuance of flavors and his luscious combinations of ingredients in a very vivid way, luring diners into an epicurean fantasy that preludes the banquet to come. Huang’s menu contains only around a dozen dishes, but each is hard to resist. The chocolate duck leg confit (油封鴨腿, NT$380), for example, consists of lean meat cooked to tender perfection and seasoned in an appetizing vinegar-based sauce, while the aroma of cocoa delivers an exciting punch to the meat. Huang says the duck leg is marinated and roasted in extra-virgin olive oil instead of duck or goose oil so as to give the French specialty a fruity and less cloying flavor. Dolce & Crepes Address: 31, Ln 330 Songjiang Rd, Taipei City (台北市松江路330巷31號) Telephone: (0910) 202-340 Open: Business hours are subject to change. The restaurant’s Facebook page says it’s open from 2:30pm to 8:30pm on Sundays, and 9:30am to 8:30pm on other days of the week, but it is better to call for a confirmation before going. The restaurant is closed on Wednesdays Average meal: NT$1,000, plus 10% service charge Details: Menu in Chinese, credit cards not accepted The lamb shoulder stewed with figs and apricots (無花果杏桃燉羊肩, NT$680) is another delicate composition which sees the divine match of fresh figs and succulent lamb exploding in the mouth, smoothened by the sweetness of apricots and sauteed vegetables. The Chinese culinary influences also have a strong presence on Huang’s menu. The Sichuan-style spicy chicken (川麻口水雞, NT$580) and king oyster mushroom (川麻杏鮑菇, NT$580) use various types of Sichuan pepper to create an enticing, tongue-numbing sensation, and the homemade pepper oil and sauce taste so good that it is almost a crime not to lick the bowl clean. For seafood lovers, Huang’s popular plate of crabs with deep-fried garlic chips (NT$2,000 or NT$1,000 depending on the types of crab) is definitely a high point of a visit to Dolce & Crepes. Though we weren’t there during crab season, the crustaceans Huang picked for my dining companions and me last month were satisfactorily plump and sweet, buried under the savory layers of garlic chips and doushi (豆鼓), or fermented black soybean, that are fried using olive oil till they are crispy. Vegetarians are also in for a surprise. Fun to look at and pleasant to taste, the roasted balloon with mushroom juice (菌汁烤氣球, NT$220) is a specially sauced bean curd that puffs up when roasted and contracts after cooling down. The end result is a large piece of bean curd that is firm on the outside but retains a fine, soft texture on the inside. Affable and well-informed, Huang appears to be a versatile master with hidden talents and skills. A word of reminder: Please leave smelly socks at home because diners are required to take off their shoes before entering Huang’s home-cum-restaurant.  

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展覽資訊： 藝術家對談：2014/10/25(六)15:00 開幕茶會：2014/10/25(六)15:30 展覽期間：2014/10/25~12/14  展覽地址：台北市大直明水路469、471號  展出藝術家：賴永興｜吉田敦｜前田忠一  青雲畫廊臉書粉絲頁 https://www.facebook.com/CloudGallery 為配合臺北大內藝術區(TAD)成立之聯合開幕，青雲畫廊正式推出日本木雕藝術家聯展，由策展人–賴永興策展，「人·形·雕」日本木雕藝術家聯展是由前田忠一和吉田敦兩位日籍藝術家和台籍藝術家–賴永興三人共同出品，其三位藝術家都曾受教於日本多摩美術大學雕塑系–竹田光幸教授門下，作品相通之處在於三人都愛用雕刻刀處理作品表面，除非必要鮮少用砂紙研磨，秉持著雕刻刀是手的延伸，作品不論粗曠或纖細都可以感受到作者與作品之間的對話關係，有技法與材質間的呼應，這種特色可說是多摩美大木雕室的一種表現特質。青雲畫廊此次木雕展覽，將台灣與日本的木雕創作進行交流與探討，未來也持續會有雕塑展覽，而此次展覽將視為畫廊展覽導向的一個重要里程碑。     In order to cooperate with Taipei Art District (TAD) was founded, there will be held a 「Sculptor‧Shape‧Statue」Japanese woodcarving joint exhibition of Atsushi Yoshida & Maeda Tadakazu & Lai Yun-Hsin by Cloud Gallery, and Lai Yun-Hsin is a curator. The three artists have taught sculpture of Japan Tama Art University – Professor Mitsuyuki Takeda. Works corresponding to the three are in love with the work surface with a chisel handle, non-essential is less abrasive paper, uphold the chisel is an extension of the hand, works regardless of rugged or slim can feel dialogue between the artist and the work relations, those features represent the style of Tama’s sculptures. The woodcarving exhibition of Cloud Gallery, Taiwan and Japan will exchange and explore creative carvings, sculpture exhibition will be continued in the future, however, this exhibition will guide an important milestone for Cloud Gallery.   

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